Haiti Guide: International Jazz Festival of Port-au-Prince

The International Jazz Festival of Port-au-Prince is the biggest, and by far the best, music festival in Haiti. Since 2007, the Haiti Jazz Foundation has been putting on this week-long event that is jam-packed with concerts and all sorts of activities for music lovers. It features musicians from countries such as Brazil, Canada, Chile, Switzerland, the USA, and of course, Haiti. In addition to the main concerts, there are after-hour jam sessions, workshops, conferences, and classes with the musicians. The events take place at multiple venues located all over the greater Port-au-Prince area, including the luxurious Hotel Karibe, the public park Place Boyer, the campus of Université Quisqueya, and the Royal Decameron Resort, located on the beautiful beaches of Côte des Arcadins. 

As their website states, the Port-au-Prince International Jazz Festival, a non-profit event, features an unprecedented cultural assembly to a local and international audience and is one of the best examples of successful partnership between the international community via embassies of Belgium, Canada, Chile, France, Germany, Mexico, Panama, Spain, Switzerland and the United States of America, the public sector through Haitian Ministry of Culture and Tourism, and local private institutions and sponsors such as Prestige (Heineken), Rhum Barbancourt, Sogebank, Mercedes-Benz, Air France and Delta.

I had the chance to speak with Milena Sandler, the General Manager of the Haiti Jazz Foundation, who is very excited about this year's event. First, unlike the past two years, there have been no interruptions in planning due to presidential elections. Preparations have been going very smooth and there should not be any interference, aka protests, that impede attendees from traveling through the city to get to events. (This is a huge plus for the organizers and for concert-goers!) Ms. Sandler is also excited as, for an added bonus this year, the festival will feature two events in Jacmel: Tuesday, January 23rd at Alliance Français, and Wednesday, January 24th at the Jacmel Wharf. Most importantly, Ms. Sandler wants to remind people that nearly all of the 40 concerts are free and that she and her team have been working extremely hard to ensure attendees will have a great time. 

Université Quisqueya. All photos credited to the PauP Jazz Festival

Have an inkling to attend part of or all of this year's festival? Then start making your plans now! This year's event, featuring 30+ artists from 14 countries, runs from January 20th to the 27th…yes, that's just a few days away! To make your plans and/or secure tickets in advance (which is recommended), simply check out the event's website, http://papjazzhaiti.org/, or Facebook page, https://web.facebook.com/papjazzhaiti/. They even have an app called, PapJazzHaiti, with android and ios versions. (The website is very well organized and has all the information you will need…it even includes a countdown timer to the event!) 

If you can't decide on which event to go to, Ms. Sandler recommends either the opening or closing night. Both concerts will have Grammy Award winning performers, and, as she puts it, "they are not to be missed." 

My friend Betsy, who has been living in Haiti for many years and has attended the event multiple times, also recommends checking out some of the smaller event venues, aka the after-hour jam sessions. You will be rewarded with a more relaxed and intimate concert experience, and will also be in a great environment to meet new people and save a few bucks on entry fees.

I have not yet had the opportunity to attend this seemingly amazing event - I didn't even know about it during my first few years in Haiti...hence the blogpost. If you do indeed attend, please share your experience with me, and for that matter, your friends and family too. I am very interested in seeing/hearing about your experience, and in light of recent events, I am sure lots of other people are interested too.

Oh, and one last note. If you plan to stay at the same hotel where the festival is that night, bring your earplugs. The hotels will most likely be more interested in catering to the live music rather than their guests!

"If you want a festival experience that feels like an adventure, a trip, a step into the unknown, one that mixes star names with sounds you've never heard before, you should come. And if you do, I expect you'll find it a hard place to forget." 
- Thomas Rees, JazzWiseMagazine.com. 

- - -

Many thanks to my friend Betsy Sherwood for her insight and encouragement for this post.

For the music lovers out there, here is a professional review of last year's event: Danilo Pérez, Christian Scott and Gonzalo Rubalcaba majestic and magnetic at Haiti’s Festival International de Jazz de Port-au-Prince

You might be thinking I have some invested interest in this event, but I don't. My only interest is supporting a great event in Haiti and making sure people are aware of it.

Haiti Guide: The Haiti I Know

Over the past seven years I have been involved in Haiti, having lived here for the past three and a half years. There is no denying that Haiti is the poorest country in the Americas (source: World Bank). But just like nearly everywhere else in the world, Haiti has good places and bad places. Good people and bad people. Good experiences and bad experiences.

For many people in Haiti, life is a daily grind where the pursuit of good health and prosperity is impeded by limited opportunities and scarce resources. At the same time, Haiti has tremendous beauty, both in it's natural landscape and it's people.

In light of the recent vulgar comments by Trump, I wanted to share some of the places I have been to, people I have encountered, and experiences I have had during my time in Haiti.

For those familiar with Haiti, I hope the content below is an accurate representation of Haiti. For those not familiar with Haiti, I hope sharing with you the Haiti I know can help you begin to better understand Haiti.

The amazing team of dedicated, honest, and hard working people I have had the privilege of working with during the past six months in Les Cayes.

When a sick baby didn't show up for their follow-up appointment, our team took it upon themselves to track down the baby to make sure they were OK.

The view from atop the Citadelle, a magnificent fort built by the people of Haiti at the beginning of the 1800s, shortly after Haiti became the first nation to gain it's independence by way of a slave revolt. 

Ile de Rat - Tourist destination off the coast of Cap Haitian.

"Coffee Shop" in southern Haiti.

The owners of the coffee shop. Many people work 6 or 7 days a week just to make ends meet.

Some people live in shacks.

Some people live in modern luxury.

Nearly every student or young person I have met in Haiti is eager to learn. Unfortunately, limited resources and opportunities often prevent them from pursuing desired training and education.

La Vallee de Jacmel kite festival, every year on January 2nd. One of the most peaceful and enjoyable events I have ever attended. 

The Baldé Family that I met back in 2012. They don't have much to offer, but they are some of the kindest and most generous people I know.

I cannot come close to capturing everything I have seen in Haiti in one post. If you are interested in learning more about Haiti and my experiences here, check out the following blog posts:

- Living conditions in Haiti

- A small taste of life in a wheelchair in Haiti

- Bienvenue à Fond-des-Blancs, Haiti

- On my mind: Reflections after a year in Haiti

- Where do I begin? Recapping my past two months in Haiti

- Just another day in Haiti

- T.I.H. - This is Haiti

- Excitement. Disappointment. Glimmer of Hope.

- What do they need down there?

- The sun is strong down here

- One month already

As always, thank you for taking the time to read my blog. I look forward to hearing your comments and feedback.

Haiti Guide: Running Events in Haiti

For those interested in participating in an organized running event in Haiti. These are the major events I am aware of. If you know of others, please share!


Haiti 3-Day Ultra Run -- Thursday, March 1st, 2018
by Run Haiti
Amazing route along the most popular hiking trail in Haiti. With that being said, will be an event for serious runners.
-----

Jacmel Bay 5k -- Friday, March 9th, 2018
by Run Haiti
The day before the Jacmel 20k. A great event for those not interested in the 20k.
-----

Jacmel Riverbank 20k -- Saturday, March 10th, 2018 
by Run Haiti

me in the Jacmel 20k in 2016
(credit: RunHaiti)

In my opinion, the best running event in Haiti. Well organized and a beautiful course. Just be sure to do lots of training on hills!

-----

Les Cayes 1/2 Marathon & 5k -- Sunday April 15th, 2018

by Les Cayes Marathon

I believe this is the first event by this group. According to their email response to my question, "it is definitely going to take place." Hopefully it does and hopefully it goes well.

-----

LGH Marathon in PAP
(Credit: LGH Marathon)

Let's Go Haiti Marathon  -- TBD

by Let's Go Haiti Marathon

Has put on events in the past, but their most recent event was cancelled. Not sure if and when they will put on another event. 
-----

If you are looking for tips on how to run in Haiti, check out the following blog post: Haiti Guide: Running in Haiti

Haiti Guide: Running in Haiti

If you are curious to know if you can run in Haiti, you most certainly can - I have trained for and run a marathon and half-marathon while in Haiti. With that being said, how to go about running in Haiti can most certainly be an adventure.

Running in rural areas is, for the most part, amazing. Dirt roads, beautiful views, and most importantly, little to no cars or motos. As my friend Lisa, who is one of the most dedicated and bad-ass runners I know, put it, "Trail running in Oregon on the coast was awesome, but I seriously think Fond des Blancs, Haiti has some of the best trail runs anywhere in the world." 

Jacmel Marathon in 2015 by Let's Go Haiti Marathon
(credit: Gwenn Goodale Mangine)

On the other hand, cities in Haiti do not exactly have the most supportive environment for running. Sidewalks or roads with ample space, or for that matter any space, for runners are practically non-existent. Additionally, motor vehicle traffic does not exactly try to accommodate pedestrians. However, even in these circumstances, it can be done, you can run in cities in Haiti.

Running early in the morning is the best way to maximize your chances of finding some safe space on the streets. While some people advise to wait until there is at least some sunlight, I like the motto, the earlier the better. At 4:00 or 5:00 in the morning, there is practically no one on the roads. However, you will find dogs! They will nearly always bark at you and sometimes chase after you. So be prepared to encounter them whether you are in PAP, smaller cities, or rural areas. (I swear the dogs in Haiti are nocturnal. You will see them sleeping during the day and will find them more active at night.)

Ready to pounce! ...ok ok, it is
about to fall over sleeping
(credit: LiveSayHaitiBlog)

To deal with dogs when I was living in Fond des Blancs, a rural area, my running friend Lisa and I would always carry small rocks with us to help prevent dogs from chasing after you. (Throwing the pebbles at barking dogs most certainly helps deter chases!) However, if a dog does indeed chase after you, STOP RUNNING, turn around, "get big" by standing tall and spreading your arms out wide, yell at them, and throw your rocks at them. If you don't already have rocks in your hands, one of the benefits of Haiti is that you can usually find rocks or sticks nearby. And if by chance you can't find anything to throw at the dogs, snap your fingers at them while simultaneously pretending you are throwing something at them. I don't know how, but this snapping trick works. 

Lastly regarding dogs. If you plan to run/walk in Haiti, get the rabies shots as an extra step of precaution. Trust me, finding the appropriate treatment after you have been bitten by a dog is challenging….sorry mom, don't think I ever told you I was bit by a dog here in Haiti.🙈

Additional running tips:

The water "sachets" (small bags of water) make for great water sources during long runs as they fit perfectly into your hand. If you don't want to carry water or food, carry money with you for long runs as you will often find small boutiques with everything you need. Just be sure to scout the route first.

As in the United States, Sundays are your best chances to find the least amount of traffic on the roads.

If you do decide to run while it is still dark, be sure to have a reflector vest and/or a light. And if at all possible, run with a partner.

When running on roads with vehicle traffic, be prepared to have motos come uncomfortably close to you. Therefore, also be prepared to get out of the way! Drivers are not necessarily trying to hit you, but they are not looking to avoid you either. Remember, in Haiti it is the pedestrian's responsibility to avoid vehicles.

Jacmel Boardwalk
(credit: Familypedia)

Do some experimenting and/or research to find the best streets to run on in your area. -- In Petion-Ville, there is a park named Place Boyer with workout equipment. In addition to the equipment, there is a small loop around the park that is fairly conducive to running. And for an added benefit, in the morning, you will find other runners and people working out on the equipment. -- In Tabarre, there is a park right next to Aristide University. It has soccer fields, basketball courts, and a lot of open space. In the morning it is swarming with people working out. I think a lap around is close to a kilometer. Just be sure to wait for daylight in this area. -- In Jacmel, the boardwalk in the center of town is a great space to run during the week. It is a small back and forth, but there are no cars or motos allowed! And just like Place Boyer, there is workout equipment. So in the morning you will find yourself among dozens of runners, walkers, and people using the workout equipment. For long runs in Jacmel, the main road out of town towards Cyvadier is great, especially under the moon light. -- I haven't run much In Les Cayes, but my friends sometimes run on the road to Gele Beach which is nicely paved and doesn't have much traffic.

Running in the rural areas is great as there are little to no vehicles and it gives you a chance to explore. With that being said, because it is mostly trail running, it is best to run with some daylight. Additionally, learn how trails/roads are affected by rain as it can seriously impeded your ability to run your regular routes. Exploring new areas is great, but only take unfamiliar trails when you have time to get lost…not that this ever happened to me... To avoid getting lost, try and take turns at places with easily identifiable landmarks. You won't be encountering any large statues or shopping malls, but a uniquely colored house or a school or a church will do the trick.

Tip from my friend Ernesto: don't run too close to pigs...they have been known to chase runners (aka my friend Ernesto) and surprisingly, pigs can sprint well!

Jacmel 20k in 2016 by RunHaiti
with my friend Lisa

Avoid the heat. After my first few months in Haiti and having somewhat adjusted to the hot weather, I pushed the limits once and ran at 10am…in August. Bad idea. Felt like I was overheating and had to take breaks in the shade to cool down. I don’t recommend it.

But no matter how hot it is, run with a shirt on….My accidental running lesson on "vagabons".

Lastly, while running, be prepared to have a lot of people stare at you. There are some local runners, but it is not common to see running that isn't take place on the soccer field. But don't worry about it. People are just curious, so it doesn't hurt to occasionally say, "bonjou". And if you don't look Haitian, people will be staring at you whether you are walking or running…so you might as well run.

--

Thanks for taking the time to read this post. If you have experience running in Haiti or any other challenging environments, I would love to hear your thoughts, tips, and tricks - especially recommendations for good places to run in Haiti.

And if you are interested in running in Haiti, check out the blog post: Haiti Guide: Running Events in Haiti